Monday, June 29, 2009
I've surfed three times in the last 10 days. It feels good, being back in the water. I'm slowly getting it back. Pete and I have been getting some fun ones at Rockaway. Pete has been blasting the fins off the back on his new whip. Elle even took a few to the shore on Saturday. The water's warm, we're staying in a loft in SoHo for the next two months, my new log is perfect, my girlfriend still wants me around all the time, my bike will be built by the weekend, and life is very very good. I am a lucky young man.
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"As you get older it is harder to have heroes, but it is sort of necessary."
1 comment:
Damn straight you are. And me too. A very lucky gentlewoman.
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